Our Paris Neighborhood - Tips & Recommendations
Food Scene
Our favorite local bar/cafe/restaurant, right around the corner. Very nice owners and staff, perfect for morning coffee & croissant, lunch (tho that's when it's busiest) or a quick & quiet early dinner. Especially like the poulet/frites (roast chicken & fries) and open face sandwiches on poilane bread.
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La Favorite
39 Rue de PassyOur favorite local bar/cafe/restaurant, right around the corner. Very nice owners and staff, perfect for morning coffee & croissant, lunch (tho that's when it's busiest) or a quick & quiet early dinner. Especially like the poulet/frites (roast chicken & fries) and open face sandwiches on poilane bread.
Our fabulous Passy covered market is open every day except Monday. Outside doesn't look like much, but inside you'll find some of very best fruit & veg stands, butchers, cheese stalls and fishmongers in all of Paris. It's not cheap, but the quality is staggeringly good. The folks that work there are very friendly and helpful. We've been going to the same stands for over 25 years -- the only thing that's much changed is that our favorite veg stand is now all organic.
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Passy Covered Market
Place de PassyOur fabulous Passy covered market is open every day except Monday. Outside doesn't look like much, but inside you'll find some of very best fruit & veg stands, butchers, cheese stalls and fishmongers in all of Paris. It's not cheap, but the quality is staggeringly good. The folks that work there are very friendly and helpful. We've been going to the same stands for over 25 years -- the only thing that's much changed is that our favorite veg stand is now all organic.
A small, old-fashioned bistro that's packed every night, Le Scheffer is one of our very favorite places to go. This is very traditional French, good food that's pretty reasonably priced. (Be patient with the head waitress -- she's been there forever, and is a bit of a diamond in the rough.) Mostly local clientele.
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Le Scheffer
22 Rue SchefferA small, old-fashioned bistro that's packed every night, Le Scheffer is one of our very favorite places to go. This is very traditional French, good food that's pretty reasonably priced. (Be patient with the head waitress -- she's been there forever, and is a bit of a diamond in the rough.) Mostly local clientele.
One of the best bakeries in Passy (and there are many). Very good baguettes, wide assortment of other breads, and lots of beautiful & tasty (tho $$) desserts. There are tables so you can also eat there or have a coffee.
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Aux Pains de Manon
31 Rue de l'AnnonciationOne of the best bakeries in Passy (and there are many). Very good baguettes, wide assortment of other breads, and lots of beautiful & tasty (tho $$) desserts. There are tables so you can also eat there or have a coffee.
Italian in Paris? Absolutely! Terrific food, great atmosphere, bon vivant hosts. Make sure you reserve in advance.
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Settebello
9 Rue DubanItalian in Paris? Absolutely! Terrific food, great atmosphere, bon vivant hosts. Make sure you reserve in advance.
La Causerie
31 Rue VitalA little gem tucked away right around the corner.
This is our lively, excellent market street, open every day except Monday.
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Rue de l'Annonciation
Rue de l'AnnonciationThis is our lively, excellent market street, open every day except Monday.
A hopping see-and-be-seen bar/cafe in the heart of Passy. Jazz brunch on the weekends.
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Hôtel Aéro
3 Pl. de PassyA hopping see-and-be-seen bar/cafe in the heart of Passy. Jazz brunch on the weekends.
Great space, fun decor, excellent French-Asian food. Big Sunday brunch.
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Restaurant Bon
25 Rue de la PompeGreat space, fun decor, excellent French-Asian food. Big Sunday brunch.
Amazing thick, dark hot chocolate and stunning desserts. A beautiful art deco room -- a great place to go for a treat.
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Carette
4 Pl. du Trocadéro et du 11 NovembreAmazing thick, dark hot chocolate and stunning desserts. A beautiful art deco room -- a great place to go for a treat.
To-die-for meringue desserts. At peak hours, there's always a long line.
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Aux Merveilleux de Fred
7 Rue de TocquevilleTo-die-for meringue desserts. At peak hours, there's always a long line.
As the name suggests, this huge space (you can't see it from the street -- you need to go in and down the stairs) and immense outdoor terrace in the back used to be a railroad station.
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Restaurant La Gare
19 Chau. de la MuetteAs the name suggests, this huge space (you can't see it from the street -- you need to go in and down the stairs) and immense outdoor terrace in the back used to be a railroad station.
Considered by many to be the top Japanese restaurant in Paris, it's always packed.
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Akasaka
9 Rue NicoloConsidered by many to be the top Japanese restaurant in Paris, it's always packed.
Featuring an all-inclusive fixed-price menu, this place is packed with local families on the weekend.
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La Rotonde de la Muette
12 Chau. de la MuetteFeaturing an all-inclusive fixed-price menu, this place is packed with local families on the weekend.
This is an top Chinese restaurant right in our neighborhood -- our guests from China raved about it (we enjoy going there, too!).
Passy Mandarin
6 Rue Bois le VentThis is an top Chinese restaurant right in our neighborhood -- our guests from China raved about it (we enjoy going there, too!).
Tang
125 Rue de la TourVery high end Chinese -- for a long time it held a Michelin star. It's excellent.
It's a quick walk from our door to this Michelin 3-star restaurant, now on the "World's Top 50 Best Restaurants" list. But it only seats 26 people, so you'll have to reserve months in advance.
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Astrance
32 Rue de LongchampIt's a quick walk from our door to this Michelin 3-star restaurant, now on the "World's Top 50 Best Restaurants" list. But it only seats 26 people, so you'll have to reserve months in advance.
Decent, reliable, reasonably priced old-style French cafe/restaurant next to the Ranelagh Gardens. People especially like their breakfast deals, and the steak tartar is excellent.
Tabac de la Muette
6 Chaussée de la MuetteDecent, reliable, reasonably priced old-style French cafe/restaurant next to the Ranelagh Gardens. People especially like their breakfast deals, and the steak tartar is excellent.
Classic French, reliable, good service, bright room, reasonably priced.
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Le Bistrot des Vignes
1 Rue Jean BologneClassic French, reliable, good service, bright room, reasonably priced.
Great pizza & Italian food, a bit of a hole-in-the-wall, but good value and always packed. (The main room is in the back -- you can't see it from the street.) They've also opened an ice cream shop across the street.
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La Matta
23 Rue de l'AnnonciationGreat pizza & Italian food, a bit of a hole-in-the-wall, but good value and always packed. (The main room is in the back -- you can't see it from the street.) They've also opened an ice cream shop across the street.
Pierre Hermé is currently considered one of the top French pastry chefs. This place near us is one of his little boutiques -- amazing macarons & chocolates. For his desserts, you have to order in advance.
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Pierre Herme
58 Av. Paul DoumerPierre Hermé is currently considered one of the top French pastry chefs. This place near us is one of his little boutiques -- amazing macarons & chocolates. For his desserts, you have to order in advance.
This top Parisian kosher deli recently relocated right up the street from us. They even have a pickle barrel!
Panzer
36 Av. Paul DoumerThis top Parisian kosher deli recently relocated right up the street from us. They even have a pickle barrel!
A kosher cafe and pastry shop just a few minutes walk, attracting a loyal local clientel (tho it's pricey).
Le XXV
25 Av. Paul DoumerA kosher cafe and pastry shop just a few minutes walk, attracting a loyal local clientel (tho it's pricey).
When we need to run out for a baguette, Lenormand at 26 rue de la Tour is where we go -- they're excellent. It's a tiny boulangerie just 2 minutes from our door. Friendly service.
26 Rue de la Tour
26 Rue de la TourWhen we need to run out for a baguette, Lenormand at 26 rue de la Tour is where we go -- they're excellent. It's a tiny boulangerie just 2 minutes from our door. Friendly service.
LE FRANKLIN Passy
1 Rue Benjamin FranklinA busy coffee shop near the Passy metro.
Grocery shopping
We've got great supermarkets within a couple blocks.
One of several Franprix in the neighborhood (there's also a small one at 23 rue de la Tour), but it's the one open latest (til 10pm). Not for "big" shoppings, but fine for grabbing a few items.
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Franprix
19 Bd Henri IVOne of several Franprix in the neighborhood (there's also a small one at 23 rue de la Tour), but it's the one open latest (til 10pm). Not for "big" shoppings, but fine for grabbing a few items.
This is one of the best grocery stores in Paris -- and it's a 3-minute walk from our door. Good produce, butcher, fish and cheese stands, wine department -- plus lots of international products. Now open til 10pm Monday-Saturday.
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Monoprix
105 Rue de la ConventionThis is one of the best grocery stores in Paris -- and it's a 3-minute walk from our door. Good produce, butcher, fish and cheese stands, wine department -- plus lots of international products. Now open til 10pm Monday-Saturday.
Not a bad place to grab a few things if you're walking back from the La Muette metro.
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Intermarche
61 Av. de la MarneNot a bad place to grab a few things if you're walking back from the La Muette metro.
A big, very, very high-end supermarket within a few minutes walk.
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La Grande Epicerie de Paris
38 Rue de SèvresA big, very, very high-end supermarket within a few minutes walk.
Sightseeing
The Eiffel Tower is a quick stroll through safe and beautiful streets any time of day or night. Since it's so close, you can go any time you want, and maybe even avoid the lines. But we strongly recommend that if you can, you buy your tickets way in advance thru their online site. The tower has a flashing light show every hour on the hour in the evenings. The best view in the city for that is from Trocadero, which is a quick walk down the street (down avenue Paul Doumer).
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Wieża Eiffla
5 Av. Anatole FranceThe Eiffel Tower is a quick stroll through safe and beautiful streets any time of day or night. Since it's so close, you can go any time you want, and maybe even avoid the lines. But we strongly recommend that if you can, you buy your tickets way in advance thru their online site. The tower has a flashing light show every hour on the hour in the evenings. The best view in the city for that is from Trocadero, which is a quick walk down the street (down avenue Paul Doumer).
This is where you get the best view in Paris of the Eiffel Tower -- and it's right down the street.
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Trocadéro Gardens
Place du Trocadéro et du 11 NovembreThis is where you get the best view in Paris of the Eiffel Tower -- and it's right down the street.
Big sight-seeing boats that cruise up and and down the Seine leave from the foot of the Eiffel Tower, a quick walk from us.
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Bateaux Parisiens
Port de la BourdonnaisBig sight-seeing boats that cruise up and and down the Seine leave from the foot of the Eiffel Tower, a quick walk from us.
A quick walk from us, this is the "hop-on, hop-off" boat that stops at 9 key destinations along the Seine -- a fun way to get to the Louvre, Notre Dame, Musee d'Orsay and much more.
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Batobus Tour Eiffel
Port de la BourdonnaisA quick walk from us, this is the "hop-on, hop-off" boat that stops at 9 key destinations along the Seine -- a fun way to get to the Louvre, Notre Dame, Musee d'Orsay and much more.
This is where the famous Bateaux-Mouches boats that cruise the Seine. A nice walk to get there along the Seine. Fabulous at night, too.
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Bateaux-Mouches
Port de la ConférenceThis is where the famous Bateaux-Mouches boats that cruise the Seine. A nice walk to get there along the Seine. Fabulous at night, too.
Hop on Bus 22 right around the corner from us -- it takes you right up to the foot of the Arc de Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysee. (You can also take metro line 6 directly there -- it's just a few stops up from Passy.)
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L'Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile
Hop on Bus 22 right around the corner from us -- it takes you right up to the foot of the Arc de Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysee. (You can also take metro line 6 directly there -- it's just a few stops up from Passy.)
Arts & Culture
This is the Monet Museum -- a quick walk there takes you through the fabulous Ranelagh Gardens.
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Musee Marmottan Monet
2 Rue Louis BoillyThis is the Monet Museum -- a quick walk there takes you through the fabulous Ranelagh Gardens.
With wonderful views overlooking the Eiffel Tower, this is a museum all about French naval history. Kids of all ages love it -- there are replicas of all sizes of boats through the ages.
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National Marine Museum
17 Pl. du Trocadéro et du 11 NovembreWith wonderful views overlooking the Eiffel Tower, this is a museum all about French naval history. Kids of all ages love it -- there are replicas of all sizes of boats through the ages.
This "museum of mankind" just reopened after a two-year renovation. The cafe overlooking the Eiffel Tower and Trocadero Gardens is known for its stunning views.
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Muzeum Homme
17 Pl. du Trocadéro et du 11 NovembreThis "museum of mankind" just reopened after a two-year renovation. The cafe overlooking the Eiffel Tower and Trocadero Gardens is known for its stunning views.
This is a really cool space with great contemporary artwork -- and it's free!
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Paris Museum of Modern Art
11 Av. du Président WilsonThis is a really cool space with great contemporary artwork -- and it's free!
This busy museum features the indigenous art and cultures of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas
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Musée du Quai Branly
37 Quai Jacques ChiracThis busy museum features the indigenous art and cultures of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas
The museum of Parisian architecture overlooking the Eiffel Tower and Trocadero gardens.
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Cite de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine
1 Pl. du Trocadéro et du 11 NovembreThe museum of Parisian architecture overlooking the Eiffel Tower and Trocadero gardens.
Very funky, very modern museum open most nights til midnight.
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Palais de Tokyo
13 Av. du Président WilsonVery funky, very modern museum open most nights til midnight.
An impressive building across the Champs de Mars from the Eiffel Tower was built during the reign of Louis XV. Today, it houses a training school for French army officers. You can only tour inside during European Heritage Days, which are the 3rd week in September.
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École Militaire
An impressive building across the Champs de Mars from the Eiffel Tower was built during the reign of Louis XV. Today, it houses a training school for French army officers. You can only tour inside during European Heritage Days, which are the 3rd week in September.
In a gorgeous small palace overlooking the Seine, this museum of fashion and fashion history just reopened (it used to be called the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris).
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Palais Galliera
10 Av. Pierre 1er de SerbieIn a gorgeous small palace overlooking the Seine, this museum of fashion and fashion history just reopened (it used to be called the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris).
Parks & Nature
One of the two picturesque man-made lakes in the enormous Bois de Bologne. You can take a little boat out to the islands, where there's a lovely park and good restaurant. You can also rent row-boats and bicycles. A great place to picnic.
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Lac Inférieur
One of the two picturesque man-made lakes in the enormous Bois de Bologne. You can take a little boat out to the islands, where there's a lovely park and good restaurant. You can also rent row-boats and bicycles. A great place to picnic.
A big open park extending from the foot of the Ecole Militaire. Big picnic scene.
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Champ de Metro - Tour Eiffel station
Quai Jacques ChiracA big open park extending from the foot of the Ecole Militaire. Big picnic scene.
A great place to relax -- or run around in. It's a very safe, lovely park with three playgrounds for kids of different ages, ping-pong tables, some exercise equipment and lots of lawn to sit out on. On Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings, there are marionette shows for little kids, a fabulous old-fashioned little carrousel, and donkey rides.
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Jardin du Ranelagh
1 Av. PrudhonA great place to relax -- or run around in. It's a very safe, lovely park with three playgrounds for kids of different ages, ping-pong tables, some exercise equipment and lots of lawn to sit out on. On Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings, there are marionette shows for little kids, a fabulous old-fashioned little carrousel, and donkey rides.
A beautiful and safe park to stroll in (lots of runners, too). You can rent rowboats to float around the ponds, or take a tiny ferry across the a little island with a nice restaurant.
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Bois de Boulogne
A beautiful and safe park to stroll in (lots of runners, too). You can rent rowboats to float around the ponds, or take a tiny ferry across the a little island with a nice restaurant.
Clothes Shopping
The rue de Passy is one of the great clothes shopping streets of Paris -- and it's just around the corner. There are lots of small boutiques, mostly for women's clothes. And bargain hunters will also appreciate that our neighborhood is considered about the best in Paris for very high-end/designer "thrift" / vintage / consignment shops.
In truth, I'm more of a window shopper, but I pass this designer thrift store when walking back from the metro, and it's always fun to look at.
Mention Luxe
55 Bd PereireIn truth, I'm more of a window shopper, but I pass this designer thrift store when walking back from the metro, and it's always fun to look at.
Réciproque
95 Rue de la PompeIf I ever need a designer gown, it will be second-hand, and I'll start looking here.
Getting Around
We're super well served by the metro (lines 6 & 9) and RER (the line C), plus there are buses that will take you directly to just about anywhere (especially the 22, 32, 53, 63 and 72). We highly recommend you get a pass -- the easiest place to do that is at the La Muette or Passy stops (much shorter lines than Trocadero).
Line 6 -- our stop, Passy, is a small but superbly convenient station. It will take you northwest just a few stops to the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysee, or southeast to Montparnasse and Nation, crossing the Seine with a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower. Just below Passy metro stop, you can catch the Bus 72, which runs all along the Seine.
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Passy station
Line 6 -- our stop, Passy, is a small but superbly convenient station. It will take you northwest just a few stops to the Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysee, or southeast to Montparnasse and Nation, crossing the Seine with a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower. Just below Passy metro stop, you can catch the Bus 72, which runs all along the Seine.
Line 9 -- our La Muette station is small but super convenient for getting directly to the all the neighborhoods across Paris north of the Seine -- like the Champs d'Elysee (stop: FDR), "big stores" (Printemps, Galeries Lafayette) or the (old, beautiful) Opera (stop: Havre-Caumartin) and place de la Republique.
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La Muette station
Line 9 -- our La Muette station is small but super convenient for getting directly to the all the neighborhoods across Paris north of the Seine -- like the Champs d'Elysee (stop: FDR), "big stores" (Printemps, Galeries Lafayette) or the (old, beautiful) Opera (stop: Havre-Caumartin) and place de la Republique.
This is a big, very busy metro station serving both lines 6 and 9.
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Trocadéro
This is a big, very busy metro station serving both lines 6 and 9.
You can get the train directly out to Chateau de Versailles right here, making it a very easy trip.
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Castorama Bir Hakeim
You can get the train directly out to Chateau de Versailles right here, making it a very easy trip.
This is the RER line C -- the RER stop is called Boulainvilliers, and you can take it directly to the Saint Michel station, which is at the foot of Notre Dame.
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Gare de Boulainvilliers station
52 Rue des VignesThis is the RER line C -- the RER stop is called Boulainvilliers, and you can take it directly to the Saint Michel station, which is at the foot of Notre Dame.